@HWTech's suggestions are good. I would also experiment with running XMP mode vs auto timings to see if that makes any difference. Your motherboard may also let you run the memory in your second channel, if you can do this and it works fine in a dual channel setting that could indicate a slot or other memory interface issue with the board. I would also run a memtest either through windows or with a tool like Memtest x86 to make sure there isn't anything apparently wrong with the modules.
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I wasn't even aware we made DDR Tracer memory, this is the first time I have ever seen a picture of them. Looks like these went EOL in 2008, so they've been out of production for over ten years by now. I personally have some DDR2 Tracer still in it's origonal clam shell at home which I will be adding to my memory antique collection :) Seeing that gaming memory wasn't very popular back in DDR days, and the price on these would be significantly more expensive compare to non blinky parts, I am not surprised it's next to impossible to find any. I would suggest setting up an alert on ebay in the hopes that someone posts some for sale down the road, it's probably the only place you may ever be able to find any. We don't even have any parts sitting around here at our office as far as I know. Good luck with your search!
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I can't see the image you attached. How is the drive connected to the system? I assume you're using an internal SATA connection? You could try booting Windows in safe mode t to ensure there isn't some 3rd party software or driver you have that's accessing the drive, then try sanitizing the SSD again. You can also try a diskpart clean on the drive which is a low level way to reset the SSD. If you can run the clean command you should be able to simply go into disk managment to initialize and format the SSD. http://forums.crucial.com/t5/Crucial-SSDs/Reset-Your-SSD-With-Windows-DiskPart/ta-p/176654
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"A TCG Command has returned an error." Haven't seen a TCG freezing issue in a while. This use to be a big issue about 3-5 years ago on Windows 8 with eDrive enabled. My guess is eDrive is still the culprit here. Is windows installed on the MX300 or the MX100? I'm going to assume you have Windows on the MX300 since it's showing TCG is enabled on this drive, and you probably have the MX100 for storage and games? Realistically the error you are getting would be caused by a boot drive with eDrive and TCG enabled. A PSID revert is part of the answer to issues like this, it will remove the TCG encryption of Microsoft eDrive, however if you do a fresh install of Windows back onto the SSD Windows will automatically enable eDrive again. To work around this issue you can enable an ATA/hardrive password in the BIOS, then install Windows to the drive. An ATA password will block eDrive from being enabled. After Windows is installed you can simply disable the ATA security. The alternative is run a registry command during the Windows install which disables eDrive all together. A TCG active status on a drive should mean some form of hardware encryption is enabled on the drive. Unless you've specifically setup encryption this is almost certainly Microsoft eDrive aka Bitlocker which is automatically configuring itself with the Windows install. Again I haven't seen this issue in quite a while, so I assume Microsoft did something on their end to fix the problem, because it just went away after a while, and it didn't seem to be any issue with any specific SSD at the time, since the problem was effecting all drives that had TCG encryption controllers.
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@try sorry to hear about all the issues you are having. You could attempt a diskpart clean on the drive through Windows, since you can still see it in disk management, this might recover the drive. http://forums.crucial.com/t5/Crucial-SSDs/Reset-Your-SSD-With-Windows-DiskPart/ta-p/176654 If you can perform a clean, refresh disk management then it should ask you to initialize the drive, if you can do this, then attempt to format the drive. If the drive can be cleaned and formatted, it should functionally be fine. I would move towards connecting it to your MBP via the USB enclosure, then do a time machine restore or Internet recovery, then test the functionality before installing it back internally in the MBP. If you purchased the drive directly from us please be sure to setup a return for refund if that's the route you wish to go, if you're outside the 45 day return period simply email or call us up directly so we can get that setup for you. 1-800-336-8896 email@example.com
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Do you have a screenshot of the Lenovo Solution Center report? Lenovo's software wouldn't do any UNC scans like smartmontools would, so I am curious what it's flagging. Typically 3rd party drive health programs from manufacturers are not designed to work with different brands of drives, or are tuned for HDDs not SSD analysis, so it's not uncommon for them to flag otherwise healthy drives. The UNC (uncorrectable error) report from Smartmontools in itself isn't anything to necessarily worry about, if the actually SMART data was showing any unhealthy attributes then the combination could be a concern, but the SMART attributes are otherwise healthy. Your drive has 9 Reported Uncorrectable Errors over a span of 3,331 hours, which isn't that abnormal. There is an exceedingly high amount of power cycles on the drive, basically once every hour which in itself isn't bad, but it could accelerate any UNC creation. I would suggest disabling disk sleep under the windows power settings, since this is likely what's cycling power to the drive on a regular basis. - Go to Control Panel - Go to Hardware and Sound - Go to Power Options - Select Change Plan Settings - Select Change Advanced Settings - Make sure the 'hard disk' field is set to ‘never’ (Laptop users select 'battery and power adapter'). Otherwise are you having any problems with the system that could be drive related? What's the current firmware version you're running on the drive? The MU02 updated on the MX100 had a few changes which could help •Corrected error handling NCQ Trim Commands •Improved stability, Efficiency, and Performance during power state transitions
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@antikashey glad to hear the update fixed the issue. I looked into your post and it appears it was archived by accident. We have a bot that goes through looking for older posts to automatically archive, yours for some odd reason was targeted. I went ahead and got the post relisted so you should be fine to comment in it again :)
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Do you have any way to test the SSD externally such as a USB to SATA cable or enclosure? Also testing in an alternative computer would be suitable if you have the ability to do that. If the drive does not detect in a different location then it will likely need to be replaced.
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It would be worth running a chkdsk /r on your old HDD, then attempt cloning again. Typically cloning issues are a result of one of two things, physically errors and problems with the source drive, or more likely simply errors with the data on the drive. http://forums.crucial.com/t5/Crucial-SSDs/How-to-schedule-a-check-disk-on-your-drive/ta-p/179020 A chkdsk /r will try to address any errors with the data on the drive itself. If this does not resolve the cloning problems you'll need to start looking at alternatives. You could try a different free cloning program like: Macrium Reflect, HD Clone, Clonezilla, but you may need to start think about using a 3rd backup drive to make an image backup through windows then restore it to the SSD, or a clean install of Windows as the final option. Making a backup image is typically more forgiving than cloning; cloning is bit for bit, so if there are any errors with the data on the drive a cloning process is going to have lots of issues.
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I second @HWTech's suspicions. It sounds like the ribbon cable in your MBP could be the culprit. The important thing is get the SSD outside of the MBP and test it externally. See if the drive can be detected, formatted, and then reinstall or do a time machine restore to the SSD and test it externally. If the drive functions and works fine outside the mac, but you have issues only after installing it, the ribbon cable is likely to blame. We have an article that walks you through all these troubleshooting steps for Macbook Pro issues. You can ignore the firmware update mention since it isn't relevant to your model of SSD. http://forums.crucial.com/t5/Crucial-SSDs/SSD-Troubleshooting-for-a-MacBook-Pro-computer/ta-p/178486 If the SSD is still acting erratic and having problems even when connected externally, it will likely need to be replaced, and we would be happy to help you set that up.
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You can go into device manager then try to unistall any audio device option you see. After you do, restart the system, and Windows will reinstall the audio drivers. If this does not resolve the issue try and get the audio driver for your computer/motherboard from the system manufacturer and install it. The last option which should certainly resolve the issue is creating a USB bootable version of Acronis, then using that to clone. There are Windows services which are preventing the audio configuration from getting cloned over correctly, so the only sound way to fix the problem is cloning outside of Windows. http://forums.crucial.com/t5/Crucial-SSDs/Create-bootable-media-with-Acronis-True-Image-for-Crucial/ta-p/172487 Let me know if this doesn't do the trick.
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Just wanted to let you know we're looking into this. There are some certification issues for ECC with the AMD systems that can complicate things. Hopefully we can have a more official response for you soon.
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Try running Windows in safe mode to see if it's stable in that setting. https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12376/windows-10-start-your-pc-in-safe-mode If it's runs fine in Safe Mode it could be some third party drive or application that's getting installed along with Windows that's causing the issue. Otherwise where did you acquire this Windows 10 install media you have, is it a recovery media from ASUS, or one you created yourself? If you purchased a Windows 10 code you can downloaded the latest recovery image from Microsoft online, then use that version to see if it produces any different results. If you look around in your BIOS settings, you may see an option that mentions AHCI/IDE/RAID for the SATA mode. Ideally the laptop should be running in AHCI mode, if it isn't then make the switch, and try reinstalling Windows to see if that resolves the issue.
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It looks like you're using the oudated version of the MOD tool. Please unistall your current version, then download the latest below. https://ballistixgaming.com/downloads/mod-utility-ddr4.html Please let me know if this does not fix the issue :)
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It seems like you've done pretty comprehensive testing. Without having anymore system stability issues and the fact the memtest only freezes on certain CPU cores, it's really hard to say exactly what the issue is. You could try running the memory with XMP disabled in the BIOS memory settings if you haven't already just see if it maybe it's a timing related issue. Also if you're doing any sort of overclocking or custom settings on your CPU that could be another factor. The HyperX part is only 8GB so it is possible the 16GB is using just enough bandwidth on the CPU to only have the problems. Without having another identical 16GB Ballistix part or another motherboard to test the memory in, we can't be really sure if the memory itself is at fault. If you get to the point you would like to have the part replaced, feel free to setup an exchange through the link below, and we would be happy to swap the part to rule it out as a potential issue.
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I am sorry to hear about the problems you are having trying to get your Ballistix parts to work in the G7 7588. It looks like we very recently invalidated all Ballistix parts for this particular laptop, so they no longer show as compatible on our website. The CPU in that Dell should be able to handle this memory with the faster latency, but it obviously appears that isn't the case, so we have turned off Ballistix parts for that system. Regular Crucial parts are still listed as compatible and should work just fine with that model. CT2K16G4FSD8266 would be the kit we now recommend. Please return your Ballistix kit for a refund to Amazon and look at purchasing the Crucial kit instead. If you're outside the 30 day return period for Amazon and purchased the parts from the seller "Crucial (Micron CPG)" on your Amazon invoice, please PM me your Amazon order number and we can look at getting that refund pushed through for you, if Amazon support won't let you return the memory.
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@TheRealChippy you may want to try a NVRAM reset to see if you can get the second slot to accept the 8GB part. I would suggest trying the reset with just one 8GB part in, then install the second, and try the reset again. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204063 Here are the steps for an SMC reset as well, which sometimes may help with getting new memory to recognize.
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Question How much power does memory use?
Answer The answer can actually vary depending on multiple variables such as system type, applications, and the type of specific memory installed. For these reasons, we do not advertise specific power usage of any of our memory. As a rule of thumb however, you want to allocate around 3 watts of power per every 8GB of DDR3 or DDR4 memory.
High performance memory such as Ballistix parts can draw more power, especially if you overclock the voltage beyond XMP settings. Registered (RDIMM) parts with more DRAM components draw additional power as well. Conversely load reduced memory (LRDIMMs) for a server can use a little less power per GB because those parts work with a lower data load to allow higher capacities and lower power needs. If you are building your own computer and you want to know how large of a power supply you should purchase, it is a good idea to use one of the free “power supply calculators” you can find online, or consult your motherboard and/or system manufacture for guidance.
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Windows Check Disk (CHKDSK) is a very powerful tool for repairing problems with information on a drive that can lead to issues with Windows, or issues with cloning an image to a new SSD.
Step 1.) Load command prompt making sure to run it as administrator. In Windows 7 you can simply right click on any link to Command Prompt and select the "Run as Administrator option. For Windows 8 and 10 right click on the Windows icon at the bottom left hand of your desktop, then click on the "Command Prompt (Admin)" option.
Step 2.) Now that Command Prompt is loaded, you will want to type in “chkdsk C: /r” then hit enter. You would replace C: with a different drive letter if you want to check a different device, but C drive will be the target in most situations you need to run a check disk.
Step 3.) You will be asked if you want to schedule for the volume to be repaired the next time the computer restarts. Type in “Y” for yes if you want to schedule a repair, then simply restart the computer when you are ready. Be aware a check disk can take multiple hours to finish depending on the size of a volume, and how many errors it has; so it’s best to run this when you will not need access to your computer. You will not need to press any keys after the system restart, simply let the automated check disk take place, and the system will start up normally once it is finished.
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Is your MacBook Pro® with a Crucial® SSD extremely sluggish, crashing, failing to see your drive, or giving you an error when trying to format or reinstall Mac® OS X®? Here are some troubleshooting steps you’ll want to follow in order to figure out exactly what is causing your problem.
A potential hardware issue in the MacBook Pro
An important step for isolating the source of your problems is to physically remove the drive from the MacBook Pro to rule out any potential internal issues in the computer itself. Note that just because your old drive, or a different drive, isn’t exhibiting any issues inside the MacBook Pro, it doesn’t rule out a potential hardware issue inside the system.
When removing your SSD, make sure to follow appropriate install guides. You can use one of our install documents on our Mac SSD Support page. When the drive is removed, you will want to connect it with some sort of external drive enclosure, or a USB to 2.5-inch drive adapter cable like this one available at Crucial.com.
Once the SSD is physically connected externally to the Macbook Pro, you can hold the OPTION key down while turning the system on. If you already have OS X installed to the drive, this will bring up Startup Manager and should let you select the SSD (now an external USB drive) as your boot device. By selecting the SSD and hitting Enter, you’re telling the MacBook Pro to boot to it over USB, and you can then test the drive out to see how it responds. Bear in mind that the SSD may be slower since it’s now working through the USB interface, but you can theoretically get your desktop to load and use any software you may have.
If you are having problems booting to the SSD externally, or haven’t installed OS X to the drive, you will now want to follow the steps for erasing your SSD, then proceed with reinstalling the operating system.
So long as you can erase your SSD externally and install OS X to the drive, the SSD should functionally be fine. If testing outside the MacBook Pro looks positive, you can install the drive back into the MacBook Pro to see what happens. However, if the system runs into problems after installing the drive, we could be looking at a potential hardware problem inside the MacBook Pro – possibly a malfunctioning ribbon cable or a logic board problem.
Another thing to consider is running Apple Hardware Test to see if it can catch any apparent memory problems or other issues. Be aware that hardware tests can fail running tests on healthy drives when they are behind a faulty ribbon cable, which is another important reason for testing externally.
Possible OS X® issues
A problem with the operating system itself can potentially cause lots of different issues. A bad operating system can be a potential source of slow system performance, crashes, or loading errors. To rule out any possible OS X issue, try reinstalling the operating system. Backup any important data first, then follow Apple Guidelines and remember to erase your disk before reinstalling.
In some situations, the recovery partition on a drive may be corrupt. If this is the case, you will need to use Internet recovery mode if you have a 2011-2012 MacBook Pro, or get an OS X recovery media on a DVD or flash drive to try your recovery if you have a pre-2011 model.
A defective ribbon cable
A potential problem with MacBook Pro systems has to do with the black ribbon cable that connects to the internal drive. Over time, it’s possible for this cable to start exhibiting issues that interfere with the operation of the drive. These problems tend to be more prevalent with fast SSDs since they will be utilizing 100% of the bandwidth on that cable – an older, slower HDD uses only a fraction of this bandwidth and may be more resilient to these problems. For this reason, if your old disk drive (or even a different SSD) is working fine on a cable, it doesn’t necessarily rule the cable out as a problem.
The important thing to remember: If you can see the SSD, erase the SSD, and transfer data to the drive outside of your MacBook Pro, or with it in another system, your SSD is most likely functional.
If it looks like the ribbon cable is the problem for your MacBook Pro, it’s something relatively easy to address. If you’ve already physically replaced your drive with an SSD, then it’s only a few extra steps more to swap your existing cable out. We recommend you look at a reputable Mac parts reseller online for purchasing a replacement cable. Buying a second-hand replacement cable for a bargain price online is an easy way to get another defective one, so for this reason go through a reputable Apple parts dealer.
A defective SSD
If all of the steps above don’t result in a positive outcome, then we may need to look at replacing your SSD. Typically, if an SSD is defective it will give you errors when you try to erase/format the drive both internal and external on the MacBook Pro. If the SSD is simply not being detected no matter where it is installed, you will need to try our power cycle instructions to try and reset the SSD, but if these do not recover the drive, it will most likely need to be replaced.
If you recently purchased your SSD, please contact the place of purchase for replacement options. If you are outside the return period from the seller you bought your drive from, or you received it directly from Crucial.com, you can submit an online RMA request through our website or contact our support here and selecting your region.
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There are quite a few options for securing and encrypting the data on your SSD, which can make it difficult to decide which is best for you. Generally, we can break down these types of security into three forms: software encryption, hardware encryption, and ATA security. Each one has varying degrees of security and can even affect system performance. Here’s what you should know about the three types of drive encryption and security.
The simplest and most widely available form of data security is software encryption. Software encryption uses a program to encrypt and decrypt the data as it is being written to and read from your SSD. In order to do all this encryption work, your CPU must spend a portion of its power to constantly compute any new information. This slows your system down in several ways, so if performance is important to you, software encryption should be avoided. In regards to SSDs, software encryption can significantly shorten the write life expectancy of the drive since it constantly has to erase and write new data to the SSD. If you were to forget the password to a software-encrypted drive, you can simply erase the drive, then create new partitions on the device.
Compatible with virtually all storage devices
Can selectively encrypt certain folders or partitions
Lots of options to choose from
Decreases system performance
Adds significant wear to SSDs
Potentially less secure than other forms of security
Takes a long time to encrypt and decrypt data
Some drives come with built-in controllers that allow you to enable hardware encryption. Unlike software encryption, hardware encryption uses a controller built into the drive to do all the hard work. This frees the CPU from having to compute the information, which means you’ll get the most performance possible out of your drive.
You’ll need to make sure you have a computer that has a built-in controller that supports hardware encryption. Crucial® MX-series SSDs come with a 256-bit AES encryption controller, which allows you take advantage of full hardware disk encryption, and is sometimes referred to as a SED (Self-Encrypting Drive). Check out our extensive knowledge base to learn more about hardware encryption requirements with Crucial SSDs and how to set it up, see how self-encrypting SSDs enhance data security and protect your organization, or get an even more in-depth look at how hardware encryption works in our drives.
Hardware encryption has many security benefits because the controllers and encryption standards are so robust – it is practically impossible for someone to recover data from a drive that is locked without the encryption key. Other cool benefits are the ability to encrypt or decrypt a drive in just a few clicks. While software encryption could potentially take many hours to complete encrypting, hardware encryption utilities like Microsoft® BitLocker let you turn encryption on or off in less than a minute.
Like with software encryption, you need to find a program to manage hardware encryption (such as BitLocker or McAfee® Endpoint). If you forget a hardware encryption password, you can use the PSID revert tool in the Crucial® Storage Executive tool to reset the drive.
No loss of performance
Simple and quick to enable or disable
Only select setups will support it
The final form of drive security uses a set of commands under Serial ATA standards to lock a drive with a password. Unlike with hardware encryption, the data on the drive itself isn’t actually encrypted but the controller used to access the information on the drive is locked. ATA security doesn’t necessarily require software to be enabled, but ways to enable it will vary from system to system. If you somehow enabled ATA security on a drive and forget the password, you will be unable to create any new partitions on the device. There are third-party options to remove ATA security locks on a drive, but it is best to never mess with settings unless you know what you are doing – you could essentially make the drive useless if you mess it up. Since there are ways to remove ATA locks, this is less of a secure method for protecting data than it is a deterrence to unauthorized access.
Relatively easy to setup
No additional software required
No loss in performance
Not a secure way to protect your data
No simple way to unlock a drive if the password is forgotten
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Could I suggest removing the SSD from the MBP, and plugging it in with some sort of USB adapter/enclosure, like this one we sell on our site. With the drive connected externally see if it can be formatted correctly, then install OSx. After the OS is installed you can boot to the SSD over USB by holding the OPTION key down at startup to test the install. If everything works externally and you install it back inside the MBP and you start to have issues, that could indicated a defective ribbon cable inside the system that may need to be replaced. The 2.5" drives in Macbook Pros don't have thermal cable, that's something unique to the iMac desktops, so it's not relevant here.
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I second the BIOS update, that system is very old. When switching to AHCI are you're sure the drive is not detecting in the BIOS? That seems like it could easily be the culprit, especially with an older chipset. A word about cloning XP, you're not going to have a very easy time doing that successfully. Assuming you have an older HDD in the system with a 512 alignment, the image isn’t going to work very well if at all on a new SSD, designed for 4k alignments. You’re much better off pre-formatting the SSD connected to a Windows 7,8,10 system to create the 4k alignment, then installing the SSD, and performing a clean install of XP on top of the 4k partition, making sure not to delete it. When you do this make sure to have the system set to AHCI mode since that’s the preferred mode that will get you more performance out of the drive. When performing a clean install of XP it’s possible it won’t detect the SSD, and you may need to pre-load the system ATA drivers to get it to detect; this was almost always required when doing a clean install of XP. New versions of Windows have much better SATA/AHCI drivers which means you rarely have to do this. Below is a video showing how to pre-install drivers during an XP load, and the other link is to the Vostro drivers.
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Ballistix parts for the most part are going to fail the Row Hammer test. There is no reason to be alarmed by this however, since it’s simply a matter of the test not playing well with certain builds of memory. Row Hammer just so happens to hate something about the architecture behind lots of our Ballistix parts, so it’s easily flagged. Row Hammers tests sensitivity is probably why it’s not a common benchmark across most memory testing applications. So long as your system is stable and the memory is passing everything else, there isn’t anything you should be worried about.
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Abnormal performance in Windows operating systems after upgrading to an SSD, such as slower benchmarks than expected or system crashes, can result from outdated or poorly supported storage controller drivers. Besides updating to your motherboard or system manufacturer's most recent drivers, changing your drivers to Windows' built-in drivers can improve or eliminate performance issues.
To do this, open the Device Manager (type Device Manager into the search field).
In Device Manager you will see a list of different driver categories. You will want to look for a category called IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers and expand it.
If you cannot find the IDE ATA/ATAPI section, then your system is most likely not running in AHCI mode. Refer to your Operating System (OS) and system manufacturer documentation and follow their steps to ensure your system is configured for AHCI mode for best performance of single SSD configurations.
You will see a few entries for the AHCI controller (such as the Intel drivers shown below).
Right click on this and select Properties, then click on the Driver tab, then Update Driver Software.
Then select Browse my computer for driver software.
In the next screen select "Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer."
In the list under Model, you will see the current drivers as well as the Microsoft one, called Standard AHCI1.0 Serial ATA Controller. Select that one and click Next.
The Microsoft driver will now be installed and you will need to do a restart for the changes to take effect (sometimes several restarts are required). You can also go back into Device Manager and verify that the Microsoft Standard drivers are now installed.
If you are still experiencing problems after making this change, please reach out to our support team for further assistance.
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When looking at maximum memory speed supported for a specific motherboard or system, one thing that many people forget to take into account is the CPU. With modern day CPUs the memory controller is built directly into the CPU itself, which means different types of CPUs may support different speeds of memory. So while a motherboard may support up to 2133 MT/s (Megatransfers per second) DDR3, most CPUs will not support that memory speed by default. Certain types of CPUs also support more advanced ECC memory like you would find in a server or workstation.
To illustrate some differences in CPUs, let us take a look at an older generation i7-2637M. If you scroll down to the memory specifications section for the CPU on Intel’s website, you’ll notice it only supports up to 8GB of total memory, and DDR3 speeds of 1066/1333 MT/s. So if I install some 1600 MT/s Crucial memory with this CPU, I should expect the memory to downclock and run at 1333 MT/s since that’s the fastest speed my CPU will support.
Now let us look at a more modern CPU like the i7-6660K. This CPU can handle up to 64GB of RAM, and has added DDR4 support up to 2133 MT/s, with DDR3L up to 1600 MT/s. Just because this CPU can support DDR4 speeds up to 2133 MT/s, does not mean it will support those speeds on DDR3 as you can see, so make sure to pay close attention to what DDR type is specified.
Where do I find this information?
You first need to figure out the CPU model number you have. If you are unsure what model number your CPU is, this information will be on the invoice for its purchase, the box it came in, displayed in your system BIOS, or you can open up System Information in Windows, which will show the CPU information as seen below.
For an Intel CPU: simply type in the CPU model number into a web search, typically the first search result that pops up will be the data sheet on the Intel Website. Otherwise, you can search the model number on the Intel page directly. Scroll down to the Memory Specifications on the Intel data page and you will find the relevant information. For an AMD CPU: AMD provides a guidelines article that breaks down the different CPU types and supported memory speeds. As an alternative, third party CPU websites like CPUboss or CPU-world will provide this information for specific AMD CPUs.
Can I get the advertised XMP speed out of my Ballistix memory even if my CPU doesn’t support that speed?
If your CPU is not able to natively run Ballistix parts at their XMP profiles, then you can possibly achieve these speeds by overclocking your CPU bus. By overclocking the CPU to run at a faster speed, you naturally increase memory speed that the memory controller in the CPU can support. If you need any assistance with overclocking your CPU, you will need to refer to online resources, and be sure to refer to motherboard documentation for navigation of the advance BIOS settings. Overclocking is performed at the user’s own risk, so be sure to research the subject until you are confident enough to attempt it, or decide it is just not for you.
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Symptoms Storage Executive gets some sort of error when trying to execute the update firmware option for an SSD within the program.
Diagnosis There is something in the system which is interfering with Storage Executive, preventing it from intiating the restart, and subsequent loading of the Linux firmware updating boot sequence.
Solution Depending on the nature of the error, there may be multiple fixes or workarounds. Here is a list of things you can check which may resolve problems with Storage Executive updating your firmware.
Make sure you have the most recent version of Storage Executive installed.
Disable any antivirus software which prevent the updater from initiating.
Ensure that you are not using RAID mode in the system BIOS settings, RAID will often prevent many of the features in Storage Executive from working with your drive, AHCI is the preferred mode. Refer to your system manufacture for any help with this setting.
If you are still not able to get the automated updater to work, use the manual boot file ISO for your SSD on our firmware webpage to manually execute the update.
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What is XMP
Typically when you install memory in a system, there is a set of standardized speeds/timings your memory will run at, this standard is what we call JEDEC. This is why you see DDR4 memory speeds like DDR4-2133, DDR4-2400, DDR4-2666, DDR4-3000; these are standardized speeds that all memory manufacturers adhere to.
Outside of JEDEC, we have something else that can determine the speed at which your memory runs, and this is XMP. Extreme Memory Profile (XMP) was originally created by Intel and is now used by all memory manufacturers with high performance desktop memory. Unlike JEDEC, XMP speeds are higher performing, and are usually custom tweeked to the specific needs of the memory. When you purchase XMP compatible memory, you must also pair it with an XMP compatible motherboard, and a CPU that will support the memory speeds. Typically XMP must be manually enabled in the BIOS settings as well.
So what happens if I install XMP memory in a non-XMP motherboard, or I don’t have XMP enabled?
Well the memory will simply run at whatever JEDEC timings the computer decides. With Ballistix parts this often means the memory will be downclocked to the next lowest speed; so a pair of DDR4-3000 Ballistix Elite parts could run at DDR4-2400 speeds if XMP was not running as an example, or it could run at 3000 speeds but with a slower latency. This is all okay of course, since most of our memory is designed to run at multiple speed settings, so even if your memory doesn’t have the frequency or timings that are listed for it on our website, it will often run flawlessly at those parameters.
So to sum things up: XMP is a great way to get extra performance out of higher end memory, if you have a setup that will support it, otherwise it’s an additional feature which is not required for the memory to operate.
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When installing an SSD or any SATA-powered device into a desktop, you may potentially run into the scenario where the power supply does not have the appropriate SATA power connections to power your drive. Molex to SATA adapter cables are a very simple and cost-effective alternative to buying a new power supply, but they can be a dangerous alternative to getting a quality power supply, potentially damaging your SSD, internal components, and may also pose a fire risk in your home.
In the event that you have an older power supply unit (PSU), which does not have these cables, or you’ve already used them all for existing devices, you’re left with two options: 1) You can purchase an additional PSU that has a larger quantity of SATA power connections, or 2) You can purchase a SATA to Molex power adapter cable.
Below is an example of a Molex to SATA adapter. They’re inexpensive and they can use an existing Molex power connector to power any SATA device. In these adapters, a lack of proper shielding can allow an electrical arc to jump between the black (ground) and either the 5.5V red or 12V yellow line. When this happens, the plastic between the lines is known to melt and catch on fire, and you essentially have your very own tesla coil going off in your computer.
Since the power is being diverted to the ground line, power supplies respond as if it’s something in the computer drawing power, and safety mechanisms in the PSU will not trigger. It isn’t until the arc jumps over to another voltage line, or causes significant damage in the adapter, that a power supply will shut off. This could potentially cause a fire outside the case.
The three-year limited manufacturer warranty on Crucial SSDs does not cover environmental damage like this. That is why it is important to use a quality power source for any SSD you install, otherwise, you could be left with the dreadful prospect of having to pay for the damage and the loss of potentially priceless data.
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